Aswan, the most beautiful city on the Nile
Imagine waking up, and this is your view-the impeccable Nile River right there, outside of your window.
During the day, you will visit the floating Temple of Isis and explore an ancient ruins on an island that has been inhabited for over 5,000 years, and at night you will sing and dance with the Nubian people who are providing you with an endless amount of hospitality, friendliness, and food during your stay in Aswan.
Aswan is a picturesque, slow-paced, historic city on the Nile River in Upper (southern) Egypt. It has a wealth of history and culture, and is a unique place to visit because many of its offerings: island temples, the Nubian village, the untouched Nile, are not to be found anywhere else in Egypt. For a couple days’ respite from the chaos of Cairo and a slower pace than the tourist hassle of Luxor, Aswan is a must for any adventurer to experience.
Getting there
We absolutely recommend flying to Aswan instead of taking the train, since train rides are notorious for taking significantly longer than the 13-or-so-hours they are supposed to take. After sitting on a train to Aswan for almost 16 hours once, I decided that paying the $150 or so for a round trip flight is the way to go. Aswan’s airport is close to the city center (a taxi ride should only set you back between $10-20), and there are several daily nonstop flights from Cairo.
If you are staying in Luxor, taking the train to Aswan is a great way to experience the scenic countryside of upper Egypt without needing to spend the better part of a day in transit. Train rides just take a few hours, and the Aswan train station is very central, walkable distance from most of the downtown hotels.
There are microbuses that go between Luxor and Aswan, but we would not recommend taking a microbus, unless train tickets are sold out or you are just dying to take a microbus between the two cities.
Where to stay
Mövenpick hotel, left to right: panoramic restaurant, gorgeous infinity pool, and the view of the Mövenpick as you take the free ferry from the mainland
We believe that the best part of Aswan is the untarnished Nile River that flows right beside the city’s gorgeous downtown. There are many hotels that are located on or next to the river--wouldn’t you want to stay on a hotel on an island in the Nile?--here are our favorites:
-Mövenpick: The Mövenpick is located on the northern end of Elephantine Island, an island in the Nile River that has been inhabited for over 5,000 years. This hotel is our top choice for luxury directly on the Nile River, and combines beautiful views of the river with a perfect infinity pool, smart, comfortable rooms, and great service. A free private ferry jets you back and forth between the mainland and your island paradise. Grab a cocktail or enjoy a meal at the top of the hotel’s tower to take in a panorama of the city.
-Pyramisa Island Aswan: This hotel also sits on an island in the Nile, and is a great budget option for those who still want gorgeous views of the river. The Pyramisa is a local hotel chain though, so travelers shouldn’t expect the same levels of service they would receive from an international brand.
-Sofitel Old Cataract: At the top end of the budget spectrum, a stay at the Old Cataract is a step back in time to the days of Agatha Christie (who stayed there) and a golden age of luxury travel to Egypt. This hotel sits directly on the Nile, but is on the city side of the river, making it more convenient for moving about Aswan. Even if you do not stay here, try Terrace restaurant for a shisha and tea and beautiful river views, or splurge and dine in the opulent 1902, the French-inspired fine dining experience with gorgeous Islamic-style decor and ambiance.
-Nubian Village guesthouses: Not just one hotel, but many small spots to stay, the Nubian Village south of downtown Aswan sits on the opposite bank of the Nile River, but each property offers unparalleled service and local flair. Nubian people are traditionally from this part of Egypt and also from what is now northern Sudan, and they are known for their friendliness, hospitality, generosity, and gorgeous dress, music, and dance. A stay at a guesthouse in the Nubian Village is an opportunity to become friends with your hosts while you enjoy home cooked food, evening entertainment, and help with whatever you need during your stay. Worth it, but definitely off-the-beaten-path and more budget in style.
A huge perk of staying at a smaller hotel in the Nubian Village is that almost all of them have feluccas (a small, motorized or sail-powered boat for ferrying passengers) and will take you on a ride for a reasonable price.
What to do
Aswan is not as sights-heavy as Luxor, but it still offers a lot to do and some especially unique sites. These are our recommendations:
The Temple of Isis is one of the most beautiful ancient Egyptian temples, and it sits on a picturesque island.
-Temple of Isis at Philae: The Temple of Isis is a floating masterpiece. After a short boat ride, you disembark on a small island that somehow has an ancient Egyptian temple crammed onto it--simply magical. What’s even more special is that the actual island this temple was on is located further south, in an area that is now flooded because of the building on the High Dam, so the temple had to be taken apart and reconstructed on its current island, piece by piece. It’s best to visit this temple with a group so you can split the boat fare and taxi fare to the boat landing--tell your boat and taxi driver that you want them to wait for you for at least 90 minutes, or 120 minutes if you do not want to be rushed.
-Nubian Museum: Egypt ruled Nubia during much of its history, and the influence can be seen on Nubian art found around Aswan, but Nubia influenced ancient Egypt in subtle ways as well, and this museum does a great job of displaying the parallel histories of the two empires. Many of the artifacts here cannot be seen in any other museums in Egypt, so this is a must-see when in Aswan. The museum is much more modern than the museum in Cairo, with clear labels telling you what most of the objects are and an easy-to-follow layout.
Whenever I have gone to Elephantine, I have been alone to explore the ruins and artifacts.
-Elephantine Island: A short boat ride across the Nile from downtown (locals do not pay a boat fare, but foreigners do), Elephantine Island gives travelers the opportunity to wander through an active archaeological site and gaze in wonder at the wealth of objects strewn about this open air museum. While on the island, be sure to look for the Nileometer (an ancient device used to measure the height of the river’s waters) and take in the beautiful views of the Sofitel Old Cataract Hotel on the mainland. Elephantine Island also houses a very active village directly next to the ruins site, and locals there are very friendly.
It may seem like not much, but don’t pass up the chance to see the unfinished obelisk. It gives a rare look into how these amazing structures were carved out of solid granite.
-Unfinished obelisk: Ever wondered how obelisks were made in ancient Egypt? This site offers a key to that question, because it houses an obelisk that was partially carved out of a massive piece of granite, only to be abandoned part way because the rock was discovered to have a flaw. You can go up to the top of the piece of granite and stare down at the massive obelisk that is only partly formed, taking in the enormity of what it took to make these enormous stone spires.
-West bank of the Nile: The opposite side of the Nile from downtown Aswan houses the Tombs of the Nobles (if you have already checked out tombs in Luxor, these can be skipped) and the Monastery of St. Simeon. Both are awesome sites to see, but be sure to take lots of water--the land on the other side of the river is quite barren.
The view from the High Dam is certainly underwhelming, but the dam will delight those who love feats of civil engineering.
-High Dam: Aswan’s High Dam was an engineering marvel that stopped the yearly flooding of the Nile River that was volatile and sometimes caused a lot of damage. The dam itself is quite unremarkable, but for civil engineering aficionados it’s a must-see. The view is also nice, but nothing like the views that travelers get from the Nile sites closer to downtown or from the Nubian Village.
Where to eat
Aswan is not as gastronomical a destination as Cairo or Alexandria, but it still has some great spots to get food.
-1902: A French inspired fine-dining restaurant in the Sofitel Old Cataract Hotel. Delicious food and pricy, but with an unparalleled level of service and ambiance. Dress sharply. Men may be requested to have a suit coat draped over their chair to further add to the fancy atmosphere (suit coats are provided by the restaurant)
-Nubian House Restaurant: Delicious spot to get Nubian/Egyptian food and experience live entertainment.
-Ad Dukka: This restaurant sits on an island in the Nile River, and offers great views, food, and service. There is a free ferry to take you back and forth.
When you are ready for a slower-paced, relaxed, tranquil, and unique city, Aswan is waiting for you. What questions do you have about Aswan? Let us know below!
